I'm checking off my wardrobe essentials and I'm on a roll. I made this knit blazer and it's super comfy. There are tons of reviews out there and I didn't really look until I was finished but, I like to live on the edge! This pattern is older but still in print, and easy enough to find locally or online. I chose this pattern because it's made for knits and I didn't want a tailored jacket, I wanted a comfy casual jacket.
- I cut the largest size, size 24. and made view D
- I did a 1/2 vertical FBA adding width from bust to hem.
- I did a one inch full butt adjustment effectively grading the pattern up per my measurements.
- I used a Ponte Knit which is patterned (black and grey) and I used contrast serger thread, I may or may not have been too lazy to change it (insert shrug).
- I did a round back adjustment
- I did two inch bicep adjustments. I kept the original sleeve cap height but after basting the sleeve, the sleeve cap was too high so I shaved off roughly all of the original sleeve cap. I lowered the armscye 1/2" since I made such a large bicep adjustment
- I did not lengthen the sleeve surprisingly.
- I did not adjust the shoulders however I may do a 3/8" narrow shoulder adjustment and add it to the sleeve length next time.
- I didn't add length surprisingly
- I lengthened the dart about an inch
I like the pattern, seems to go together smoothly and like others have said, the directions for the notch collar are basic at best. If you missed my stories on IG, I talked about how I tried to topstitch to fix my boo boo on the collar (obviously topstitching doesn't fix bad technique LOL).
Here are the reviews that were helpful SewCraftyChemist, and SewManju, will use the collar technique Manju links in her review the next go round for any pattern with this type of collar. I feel like a stretch suiting would work too as long as it has the stretch necessary for the pattern. I would recommend a tricot/knit interfacing, my woven interfacing was a bit too structured but it worked. I like that there isn't a lining, sleeve placket, AND no dropped shoulder, it truly makes it casual. My only real dislike is there is not back facing, so if I had to choose I would say the Simplicity blazer is a better draft plus it has cup sizing. The only design change I made was to add one button as opposed to three. I may add one more button a little higher, I think it will look better buttoned since I put the button a little too low.
|When I cut the button hole you can see the white from the lycra, I'll use a black marker and that should fix it. You can also see the tugging at the bottom center front.|
That's it, do you have a favorite casual blazer pattern? I think I want to make another coat/ jacket so more to come...