Battle of the FBA's- Ogden Cami

Pivot and Slide FBA with no adjustments to the waist and hip. No pulling at center front

I know I'm late with this make, but I wanted a nice cami that had feminine details and the True Bias Ogden cami fit the bill.  After looking for reviews, I saw a few with FBA's and some plus size bodies so that was good.  I decided to give it a try and see which FBA would look the best. I took a lot of mirror selfies so we can see the differences, these are muslin's so I didn't feel like pulling out the tripod, so yeah, this is what we got! Ohh, I even tried to show you the back. 

Darted FBA with my over fitting at the side seams

There are a few types of FBA's out there, I chose a darted FBA (I used Fit for Real People's instructions this link was found on Google) and the pivot and slide FBA ( made popular by Nancy Zeiman).  I wanted to see how each would look.

Both versions of the Ogden cami

As an FYI, I'm wearing a strapless bra for both photos to give a good reference, the straps did not cover my bra straps (I wear 38F/40DDD, so yeah, my straps are sturdy lol).  For both versions, I used fabric that was very similar in weight, hand and drape so I could see how they would perform.  Also, I used the largest size, size 18 as the starting point, this translated to a size 22 in big 4 patterns (44.5" bust measurement), the finished garment measurement from the pattern for the 18 was 45.5", my full bust is 46" so when I finished the FBA's, it gave me 47.5" finished garment measurement.

Here's what I did for each FBA:

Pivot and slide FBA with no adjustments for waist and hip.  Two inches added to length

I like the underarm coverage, but there's a drag line from the bust.  I will grade out or increase FBA.


Pivot and slide:
  • I added 1cm to the width of the straps
  • I did a 1" FBA, the largest size, size 18 was for body measurement of 44.5 bust, the FBA gave me a total of 2"  ( you do a FBA on half the bodice so it doubles the adjustment), this gave me 46.5" which is my full bust.
  • I did not grade the waist or hip because the top has "generous" ease, I will add a little more ease.
  • I added 2" at the lengthen/ shorten line, on the shell and lining, the top is drafted for someone 5'5" and I'm 5'9".
  • I serged the lining instead of doing a narrow hem so it would hive a nice finish and would not be bulky.
  • I used a mystery fabric it has the drape of challis but it feels like polyester.


Darted cami on top of original



Good fit at the upper chest, ugg, I over fitted the side and serged, should have basted first.

Dart looks good but a little low.  Dart is almost invisible.  Neckline pulling is from over fitting at side seams

Darted FBA:
  • I added a dart to the pattern using the book Fit for Real People .
  • I did a one inch FBA could possibly do 1.5" to remove the vertical drag lines or add 5/8 to the side seam.
  • I located the "apex" by overlapping the strap and the bodice front.  I took half of the total measurement for the strap and added that amount to the front bodice. (measuring from the mid way point of the strap down to my apex measurement to identify where I wanted my dart)
  • I added 2" at the lengthen/ shorten line, on the shell and lining, the top is drafted for someone 5'5" and I'm 5'9".
  • I serged the lining instead of doing a narrow hem so it would hive a nice finish and would not be bulky.
  • I used a rayon challis.
  • I added 1cm to the width of the straps.  
Don't judge the white serger thread lol.
Conclusion: 

For both versions, I graded up the back by adding 5/8" to the side seam.  For the final version, I'll do the pivot and slide for the back too, this will give a little more coverage in the back.  I will also add a little more ease if I use a cotton or eyelet so it hangs nicely from the bust.  I desperately need to work on my V necks lol! 

The dart placement is a little low on the darted version, but just a little, this can be fixed by raising it or taking 3/8" off the straps to raise it a bit.  I believe with the darted version, it needs more adjustments for adequate underarm/side bra coverage.  Maybe shortening the straps may fix it with this version, adding a dart was an estimation.

There are no dislikes with the pivot and slide method, the only change would be to grade the waist and hip out to give some more room there, it had ugly drag lines from the bust down but no issues with the FBA itself.  After reviewing the model on the pattern envelope, I noticed there are folds that radiate from the bust as per how it's drafted.  I may just add an inch of ease at the waist and hip to soften the vertical fold on the Pivot and slide version to mimic the darted version.

After all of this, I like the pivot and slide version better because it's faster and easier to construct.  The Pivot and slide added more coverage under the arm and I didn't have to guess where the dart needed to be (the lazy method).  This method also elevates a step by not having to add a dart to the front and the lining.  But what about the darted method?  I like the darted method, but there's some adjustments needed to the armscye for it to be wearable.  The easy fix is for the straps to be shortened a bit, this would not be a hard adjustment.  I think I'll raise the under arm seam about 1/2" or shortening the straps about 1/2" and taking a larger seam allowance, easy!

All in all, they both gave me what I needed but because of the type of cami (swing), the pivot was faster and required no adjustments to the straps for me.  The darted version may work better in a cotton fabric, we'll see.  I will wear both these versions, as a part of my lounge wear so the muslins are wearable, yay!!  The black challis is a little snug across the chest after I over fitted the bust (don't do that!) and finished the seam trying to fix the armscye issue but it's wearable around the house.

Sooo, stay tuned for the final Ogden after all the adjustments.  I hope this was helpful, and you can see the differences in both versions and you get an idea of how they will look when you make your adjustments.  

So what did you think of the battle of the FBA's?  Have you sewn the Ogden Cami?  Did you have to do a FBA?  Which FBA did you like best?

Comments

  1. Thanks for all the detail in this post. It's really interesting. I think both versions look great. :)

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  2. Thanks for all the detail! I like both versions. Do you have one planned with the cute little buttons in your inspiration pic?

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    1. Yes, another black version, I purchased the button kit too.

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  3. Although I don't have to do FBA's I enjoyed reading your detailed comparison. You have a really good knowledge of processes And explain it well.

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  4. Great comparisons. I think the pivot and slide method Ogden looks best. I was not familiar with the pivot and slide method for a FBA adjustment. Thanks for a great comparison!

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  5. Wow! Cause I basically counted this pattern out. I know her 18 equals a 22 but on a good day I need to add to a size 22 for some fit challenges. Both look good but I always prefer a side dart and think that just by raising the armhole seam 1/2" that would solve your challenge. Will be interesting to see which one you chose after wearing them around the house.

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    1. I'm sure I'll make both again but yes, as I wear them, I see things I need to adjust.

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  6. I like the pivot and slide version a little better, and enjoyed your comparison. I have NEVER ever had to do a FBA, so I am useless here lol! That said, it looks like your work will pay off in the future.

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    1. Thanks Vanessa! Ok, no FBA for you, I've gotten used to it now, not sure if I could sew commercial patterns without some form of bust adjustment.

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  7. Sweet! A FBA for this exact pattern is on my to do list, and I hadn't heard of the pivot and slide method- thank you so much for sharing :-)

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    1. You’re welcome, I hope it helps if you do a FBA!

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  8. Great detailed post Laquana! Looks like you received a great fit with your adjustments… I like both tops on you! I predominately sew with knits and so far have not had to do any type of FBA. Now if I used a commercial pattern along with woven fabric, I would have to do a FBA in most cases and I am not that large (38 full C)! However, the commercial patterns are not made for any woman who has curves, LOL!

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    1. Lol thanks Myra, some are not made for curves lol, but hopefully with a few adjustments we make it work!

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  9. I've been planning to tackle this pattern again for this summer, but definitely need an FBA. Now I have more options to choose from - might try the pivot & slide to preserve the dartless look. Thanks for the great information!

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  10. Thanks so much for taking the time to show and describe the differences with both these methods. It is really helpful to see how each method produces a slightly different outcome.

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  11. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences. I've made this cami for my daughter, my son's girlfriend, and her sister. They're all young and firm and lovely. As I've looked at it on each of them, I've determined I'd need a FBA and I'd need to add length (I'm 5'10", as is my daughter, but she likes cropped things and I'm in my 50s and had three kids!!). I really appreciate the time you took for this...now I'm off to study the pivot method.

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