DIY Helmut Lang Inspired sweatshirt McCalls 7688

Hi there!  This is the last garment of the year for me so I thought, why not make it twice?  This pattern was picked as a part of an Instagram monthly challenge #Sewyourview with @thatsewmonica and @feesewcrafty.  I don't know how I'm gonna follow them next year if I go on a pattern fast, I think I need to slow down on the patterns!  I have way too many, I think I'm at the point where I need to start modifying some of these patterns, but then when they're a dollar why modify?  I still have to store the modified version unless I modify it on the fabric?  I don't know ya'll I'm torn, I'm running out of places to keep patterns.  I've already abandoned logging my patterns in pattern review because I got tired of inputting them!

OK, I don't have to make that decision now, so I'm going to talk about these sweatshirts.  Hunny, Mrs. Erica Bunker made this sweatshirt and as always she slayed it!  She gave some good tips on working with the ruffle, here's the link to her tutorial.  I went looking for reviews, and there are a few posts on Instagram, but here's one from Tipstitched, this also happens to be at this point, the only review on Pattern Review's website.  The black version is inspired by designer Helmut Lang.

I love that you can see my daughter's reflection!

More of my daughter's reflection, new phone and good pictures!

Portrait mode on my phone, love it!

Pattern Description:
Loose fitting tops and dresses have sleeve variations. A, B, D: Sleeve and hem bands. C: Hood, hem band, pocket, sleeve casings with purchased ties. E: Sleeve bands, front casing with purchased ties.
For moderate stretch knits only.


SEWING LEVEL: Confident beginner (working with knits, aligning ruffles, bands and casings)
SIZING:L-XXL, I made XL for both sweatshirts
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  
Yes, however for the stripped version, I left off the sleeve ruffle, too much ruffle for me.
Were the instructions easy to follow?  
Yes, they are easy enough and the illustrations are good.  As a note, when attaching the sleeve and waist band, the instructions do not tell you to sew the band and shirt right sides together, that's one thing that irritates me about these instructions, and I've seen it before.  I know it makes sense to sew them right sides, but if you are so focused on what you are doing you may not pay attention and the illustrations sort of show the wrong side of the garment.  Sorry for the tangent, I think it would be nice to know or maybe it's just me.   Beginners should make note that most bands are sewn right sides together after you have pressed them in half, making sure the seam is on the inside of the garment.  Also, the pattern instructions do not give you the obligatory option to sew this completely on a serger/overlocker, I think this can be completely sewn on the serger/overlocker.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  
I like that I didn't have to do a bicep adjustment because of the dropped shoulder, I like the different views to include the dress and drawstring views and I like the super quick and easy sweatshirt pattern.  Not really a dislike, but the bands are not as snug as I would like, I think if I make it again I will tighten the bands by sizing down 1/4"so they cinch in a bit or maybe us a ribbing designed for cuffs.
Fabric Used:
I used a striped sweater knit for view B and a poly stretch fabric for view A
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  
For view B (my muslin), I omitted the sleeve ruffle and sewed the front/back ruffle right side of ruffle to right side of top (see link above for tutorial).  For view A, I added a contrast sleeve.  When I made view B, I noticed the sleeve was long so I didn't add my normal inch to the sleeve length, I actually would shorten the sleeve 3/4 inch next time.  I didn't add the normal two inches (I'm 5'9" and most patterns are drafted for 5'6") to length the hem because the sweater hit at my high hip and I liked that when I did my tissue fit.  I also didn't do my sloping shoulder adjustment when I made view B or View A, the second time I forgot.   
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I think so , it's a basic sweatshirt so I think it would be a fast and easy go to.  After I wear these two I will see if I need to do a forward shoulder adjustment.  Yes, I recommend it, I think it's an easy and fast sew and I think a beginner will get satisfaction and good results with this one.

Do you have any last minute sewing goals left for the year or are you done?  I think I'm going to do a highlight post in the new year, stay tuned for that.


  1. I love both tops, but the Mccalls one is sooooo nice! I have to check that one out. Oh, and I hear ya on too many patterns. I am not buying one more bin to store all my patterns, lol!

    1. Thank you and yes! I shouldn’t buy another bin, ughh!

  2. Laquana as usual you've made two attention GRABBING garments here. Helmut Lang; I'm sure I've heard of but can't remember. Thanks for helping keep up with things. Your Sweatshirt has given me inspiration for a piece of fabric I have that was gifted and I did not know what in the world to do with.

  3. I want to add a flounce to a sweatshirt I have. Is that flounce peice straight or curved?

  4. Love your sweatshirts! Especially the very fancy faux leather one! (Very sexy!) and I love the way you styled them.

  5. Lovely job lady and the pics are nice!!

  6. I SO love these tops you made!! You know I ran out and got this pattern as soon as I saw yours!!! They look amazing on you...Great fit!!!

    1. Thank you! Looking forward to seeing yours. Yes


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